This is because the projected beam is too narrow and the lights not powerful enough. When riding in the forest at night I can't see the contours of the road ahead. I have a Trekking Sduro S 6.0 which has a 60 lux light. Although not directly Yamaha's fault, the lighting on many Trekking Sduros is not sufficient for riding in the countryside at night. The diagnostic button on the battery sometimes doesn't work.ģ. The button to power on the bike is starting to fail. The bike’s remote is designed in such a manner that you have to take your right hand off the handlebars in order to switch to another level of assist. Press on the RUN button and the remote simply swivels out of your hand. This means that it’s nearly impossible to walk the bike up a hill using RUN mode. The result is that it’s impossible to tighten them so that the remote doesn’t swivel around the handlebars. The remote is fastened by screws which “bite” into the plastic casing. The engineering on some of the parts isn't up to Yamaha standards. You'll get just as much power and won't constantly be changing gears.Ģ. Start in 1st gear and shift into second or third gear, then increase the number of RPMs instead of shifting through all the gears. Other drives, like the Bosch or the Shimano have a more intelligent way of dealing with this. But as soon as I reach cruising speed, I have to shift down several times as well. After the first red light goes green, I need to shift up 6 times to reach cruising speed. Think of a scenario where you have several consecutive red lights. Because the cadence is limited, the bike requires an inordinate number of gear shifts in traffic. Might explain why my knees ache sometimes. I hand't noticed this until someone remarked that I was climbing in a really high gear. I climb a 7% grade incline every day and the bike is in 8th or 9th gear (meaning, 2-3 gears away from 11 teeth). But it also means that climbing will be more difficult on the knees (once again). This means you'll need to shift up a gear or two to get power. If you're spinning away in 1st gear you will quickly hit a cadence where power drops off. If you want to climb a hill, the lowest gears might not necessarily be the best gears. The Bosch and Shimano ECO modes are infinitely easier on the knees. I use ECO mode only when absolutely needed. If you want to tour around in a hilly area, you need to be really fit with the Yamaha. This is perceptible in Standard mode, and painfully perceptible in ECO and ECO+ modes. The drive has a tendency to resist your efforts above a certain RPM level, and the cadence window in which it provides power is pretty limited. Extend it by staying under 20 mph and using the lower 1 or 2 levels of assist.1. Expect the range to be limited around 15 to 30 miles given the higher torque motor and high-speed operation (where wind resistance becomes more of a factor). It comes in three sizes and I was using the medium ~17″ frame which felt slightly small for my 5’9″ build but kept my body upright for improved city riding. I appreciate the included fenders, rear rack and integrated LED lights from Spanninga! This e-bike is ready to go right out of the box and all of the parts match. The speed range of the motor itself is somewhat limited but it’s very powerful which is great for climbing and it’s fairly quiet. To truly reach ~28 mph on this electric bicycle you do have to pedal along and use one of the higher gears. This plastic ring has three buttons… one to enable boost, one to slowly and smoothly reach ~6 mph and another unlabeled button offering full power up to ~20 mph if you’re using one of the higher gears. While this is a speed-pedelec Class 3 with only pedal assist by default, you can spend $50 extra for a boost button to be mounted near one of the ergonomic grips. The 10 speed Shimano Deore drivetrain is solid mid-level and should hold up well if cared for. It’s a more basic motor that does not detect shifting and therefor may strain the chain, sprockets and derailleur more if you try to shift while pedaling hard and using a high level of assist. I found the motor to respond mostly to cadence, to run quietly and to be slightly delayed… both starting and stopping. You get thru-axles for improved stiffness (12 mm rear and 15 mm front) and hydraulic Shimano disc brakes with a larger 180 mm rotor up front for quick stops. This improves balance and frame stiffness while making quick-release on both wheels possible (and easier). The 2016 IZIP E3 Dash features a high torque mid-drive motor while the previous two iterations used gearless direct drive hub motors.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |